The dresser plans are finally complete! You can see by the picture
below that these plans are a little different than the dresser that I
built.
The first design difference is how I constructed
the sides and legs. I made this change because it is simpler and
sleeker. I made the top two drawers slightly shorter and each drawer
width 1/4" smaller so you would only need one sheet of 3/4"plywood
making it much less expensive! The remaining design and construction
methods are the same as my dresser - consider this the new and improved
version! The Purebond really made this dresser pretty!
(This is a mod of Patrick's Beach Dresser from anawhite.com - thanks!)
Link to these plans on ana-white.com
***
special note***
If you do not have a jigsaw or if you are planning to stain the
dresser, there is a modification for each instance in step 4. Each of
these requires the purchase of an additional 1x2x6.
SHOPPING LIST
Wood:
4 - 1x2x8
1 - 1x2x6
2 - 1x3x6
1 - 1x5x6
3 - 1x8x8
1 sheet 3/4" birch plywood
1 sheet 1/2" birch plywood
2 sheets 1/4" birch plywood (review cut list below before purchasing)
8 pair 14" euro drawer slides
16 knobs
2" finish nails
1 1/4" finish nails
5/8" finish nails
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler
TOOLS
measuring tape
square
safety glasses
hammer or nailer
hearing protection
drill
table saw
compound miter saw
kreg jig
CUT LIST - Boards
Side trim:
4 - 1x2 @14 1/4"
Legs:
4 - 2x2 @35 1/4"
Front trim:
2 - 2x2 @ 62 1/4"
Back brace:
1 - 1x2 @ 62 1/4"
Drawer dividers:
6 - 1x2 @ 30 3/4"
Small drawer fronts:
2 - 1x5 @ 30 1/2"
Large drawer fronts:
6 - 1x8 @ 30 1/2"
Top trim:
1 - 1x2 @ 67 1/4"
2 - 1x2 @ 18 1/4"
CUT LIST - Plywood
3/4 Plywood:
Sides
:
2 - 14 1/4" x 32 1/2"
Center:
1 - 17 1/4" x 31 3/4"
Top and bottom:
2 - 15 3/4" x 62 1/4"
1/2" Plywood
Large drawer front/backs:
12 - 5 3/4" x 28 3/4"
Small drawer front/backs:
4 - 3 1/2" x 28 3/4"
Large drawer sides:
12 - 5 3/4" x 14"
Small drawer sides:
4 - 3 1/2" x 14"
1/4" Plywood
Drawer bottoms:
8 - 14" x 29 3/4"
Back:
1 - 32 1/2" x 65 1/4"
Plywood diagrams
If
you are getting this cut at a store, have them make the 32 1/2 rip cut
to make the sides. Having the sides exactly the same measurement is
very important to getting the dresser square.
These
are the drawer sides and front/backs. I like to lightly label each
crosscut by its row number. For example, each drawer front/back from
the first rip cut would be labeled 'row a.' This way, I know to pair
two 'row a' pieces for one drawer which ensures the pieces will be
exactly the same length helping to make the drawer box square. If I
matched a front/back from row a with one from row b, they might be
slightly off in measurement. Likewise, I match sides from the same
rows.
You may not need the second sheet if you have some scrap 1/4" already.
PLEASE
read through the directions entirely before starting this project.
Please use eye and hearing protection as well as any recommended safety
features on your equipment.
Step
1. Predrill 4 pocket holes in the inside top of each side to use
later to attach the dresser top. Attach trim to sides with glue and
either 1 1/4" finish nails or screws from the inside. The plywood has a
'good' and a 'not so good' side, so make sure you face the good side
out.
Step 2. Attach the posts to each side with pocket holes and 1 1/4" screws keeping the tops flush.
Step
3. Attach the dresser bottom to the sides keeping the back of the
dresser bottom flush with the back legs. There should be a 1 1/2" space
at the front. Lay the pieces on the ground like the dresser is on its
back. Making sure each corner is square, attach using pocket holes and 1
1/4" screws from underneath.
Step
4: Using a jigsaw, cut inserts in center section as shown below. In
addition to drawing the lines, you may want to use a straight edge to
keep these corners square.
***no jigsaw***
If
you don't have a jigsaw, make the center dimenstions as shown below and
attach 1x2s as shown. The extra 1x2 cut will be 1@ 29 1/2" and 1 @
31". Use pocket hole screws to screw from the center section into the
1x2s. Try to place these where the center of the drawers will be to
avoid interfering with the drawer divider or drawer slide placement.
***staining the dresser***
If
you want to stain the dresser, this option will let you avoid sanding
the plywood edge to accommodate edge banding and will also keep all the
front trim the same type of wood taking the stain more evenly. The
extra 1x2 cut will be 1@ 29 1/2". Use pocket hole screws to screw from
the center section into the 1x2. Try to place these where the center
of the drawers will be to avoid interfering with the drawer divider or
drawer slide placement.
Step
5: With the dresser still on its back, attach the center section using
plenty of glue and screw from underneath. Use 5 1 1/4" screws.
Step
6. Attach front trim pieces (2x2s) using the cutouts as guides. For
the bottom trim, glue and use 2" finish nails or pocket holes from
underneath. Screw directly from underneath into the cutout using 2 1/4"
screws.
For
the top trim, attach with 2 pocket holes on each side underneath and
screw directly from the top into the center cutout using 2 1/4" screws.
(I also used glue on each cutout.)
Step
7. Attach the 1x2 brace to the back with pocket holes under each side
and screwing directly into the cutout using 1 1/4" screws.
Step
8: Drill 2 pocket holes into each end of the drawer dividers. With
the holes facing downward, attach to the center and sides. Cut a piece
of wood 7 1/2" and one 4 3/4" to use as a guide/jig for each opening.
It is very important that each opening is square.
Step
9: Build drawer boxes as shown. There should be 6 larger and 2
smaller. Check for square. Put your pocket holes in the front and the
very back. The drawer fronts will cover the front pocket holes, and you
won't ever see the back holes.
Step 10: Add drawer bottoms using glue and 5/8" finish nails.
Step
11: Install drawer glides according to package directions allowing for
a 3/4" inset to accommodate the drawer front. Working one drawer at a
time, put the drawer box in the dresser. Using 1/8" craft wood strips
as spacers on all four sides, position drawer front and clamp. Attach
using a few 1 1/4" nails. Don't put nails where your knobs will be be.
I like to write in pencil where the drawer was originally fit (e.g. L4
for left side, 4th drawer down.) I found that the 1x8s I used varied
slightly in width. (It's probably overkill, but I wanted to be extra
cautious!)
Step
12: Attach trim to top using glue and pocket holes from underneath or
2" finish nails. (If you don't want to miter the corners, cut the 2
side pieces to 15 3/4" and do a butt joint with the unmitered 67 1/4"
front trim piece.
Step
13. Place dresser top upside down on the ground. Remove drawers, and
place dress upside down so that the backs of the dresser and dresser top
are flush and there is a 1" overhang on the front and sides. Attach
using the pocket holes and 1 1/4" screws. Also, screw through the brace
into the top using 1 1/4" screws.
Step 14. Using glue and 5/8" finish nails, attach back to dresser.
*This post was written before I changed the name of my blog.*